During the 19th and early 20th centuries, cattle-herding nomads from tribes as geographically and culturally diverse as the Ersari and Kuchi of Afghanistan, the Balti of Pakistan, and the Rabari and Ahir of India moved seasonally across Central and South Asia in search of fresh pastures. Although they carried few belongings, these travelers developed a material legacy of adornment practices embodied in the textiles and finely crafted jewelry they wore and bartered, practices that continued as they settled into modest villages over time.
These adornments were made by artists of tremendous skill using a range of traditional techniques still practiced today, including sandcasting, lost-wax casting, stamping, engraving, enamel inlay, and the careful twisting and sodering of wire. In their original contexts, such objects served as expressions of tribal affiliation, personal wealth, spiritual beliefs, and cultural heritage. They functioned as capital and currency for men as well as women, protected skin from sunburn and insect bites, and stimulated vital pressure points, or marma, to enhance fertility and relieve pain.
This focused exhibition, made up of promised works from the collection of Barbara and David Kipper, presents a sampling of these objects, from ornate headdresses to simple stud earrings, lending insight into their cultural legacy. In recent decades, loss of land due to population growth and industrialization has had significant impact on traditions of adornment. As rapid urbanization continues, preserving and understanding the diverse visual legacies of South Asia’s nomadic cultures remain urgent endeavors.