Designed by Gertrude Rapp (American, 1808–1889) Woven by the Harmony Society (American, founded in Germany, 1785-1916)
About this artwork
This work exemplifies American efforts toward domestic silk production in the early 19th century. At the time, some Americans expressed concern that the importation of luxury goods, such as silk, from Europe, did not properly showcase the nation’s greatness. Under the direction of Gertrude Rapp, members of the Harmony Society, a small pious sect of Lutheran immigrants, raised silkworms and wove silk textiles. Although members supposedly had no interest in fashion or luxury, this colorful silk velvet demonstrates their dedication to self-sufficiency.
Date
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Silk, satin weave with supplementary patterning warps and pile warps forming cut voided velvet
Dimensions
24.4 × 47 cm (9 5/8 × 18 1/2 in.); Repeat: 11.6 × 5.1 cm (4 5/8 × 2 in.)
Credit Line
Acquired by exchange from the Scalamandré Museum
Reference Number
1952.502
IIIF Manifest
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Mayer, Christa Charlotte. Masterpieces of Western Textiles from The Art Institute of Chicago. Chicago: The Art Institute of Chicago, 1969. Plate 87, p. 114, ref. p. 8.
Mayer Thurman, Christa C. Textiles in The Art Institute of Chicago. Chicago: The Art Institute of Chicago, 1992. pp. 111-12, 148.
Art Institute of Chicago, Masterpieces of Western Textiles, Jan. 25–Mar. 2, 1969.
Art Institute of Chicago, Fashion Items and Textiles Pertaining to Fashion, Apr. 29–July 16, 1978.
Art Institute of Chicago, Agnes Allerton Gallery, Sumptuous Velvets from the Permanent Collection, Mar. 1–Sept. 28, 1980.
Art Institute of Chicago, Elizabeth F. Cheney and Agnes Allerton Textile Galleries, Textile Masterpieces from the Art Institute of Chicago’s Collection, Feb. 17–May 2, 1993.
Art Institute of Chicago, Elizabeth F. Cheney and Agnes Allerton Textile Galleries, America the Beautiful: Textiles from the Permanent Collection, Mar. 6–Jul. 21, 1996.
Art Institute of Chicago, Elizabeth F. Cheney and Agnes Allerton Textile Galleries, Modern Velvet: A Sense of Luxury in the Age of Industry, Oct. 21, 2016–Mar. 19, 2017.
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