Chasuble Front with Orphrey Cross

A work made of chasuble: silk, plain weave with silk supplementary facing wefts, bound by secondary binding warps and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk facing wefts  forming weft loops in areas and supplementary pile warps forming cut, pile-on-pile voided velvet; orphrey cross: linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk floss and gilt- and-silvered-animal-substrate-wrapped linen in bullion, outline, satin, and split stitches; laid work, couching and padded couching; orphrey braid: silk and silver-gilt strip wound around silk fiber core, plain weave, open work with weft deviations; fringe: silk and gold-gilt-strip wound around silk fiber core, warp-faced plain weave with extended ground weft and supplementary patterning weft uncut fringe off one edge; lining: linen, plain weave.
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  • A work made of chasuble: silk, plain weave with silk supplementary facing wefts, bound by secondary binding warps and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk facing wefts  forming weft loops in areas and supplementary pile warps forming cut, pile-on-pile voided velvet; orphrey cross: linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk floss and gilt- and-silvered-animal-substrate-wrapped linen in bullion, outline, satin, and split stitches; laid work, couching and padded couching; orphrey braid: silk and silver-gilt strip wound around silk fiber core, plain weave, open work with weft deviations; fringe: silk and gold-gilt-strip wound around silk fiber core, warp-faced plain weave with extended ground weft and supplementary patterning weft uncut fringe off one edge; lining: linen, plain weave.

Date:

Chasuble: 15th century; Orphrey Cross: 1401/50

Artist:

Chasuble: Italy, Florence
Orphrey Cross: Bohemia or Germany

About this artwork

The Roman Catholic Church dictated that all chasubles, the principal vestment worn by bishops or priests to celebrate mass, be made of silk, the most espensive and precious of all fibers. Chasubles vary from cone-shaped garments to more abbreviated forms, consisting of two pieces of material joined at the shoulders. Some chasubles contain embroidered or woven orphrey bands, made of gold threads or gold applied to parchment and frequently shaped like a cross.

On View

Textiles, Gallery 237

Title

Chasuble Front with Orphrey Cross

Origin

Florence

Date

1401–1500

Medium

Chasuble: silk, plain weave with silk supplementary facing wefts, bound by secondary binding warps and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk facing wefts forming weft loops in areas and supplementary pile warps forming cut, pile-on-pile voided velvet; Orphrey Cross: linen, plain weave; embroidered with silk floss and gilt- and-silvered-animal-substrate-wrapped linen in bullion, outline, satin, and split stitches; laid work, couching and padded couching; orphrey braid: silk and silver-gilt strip wound around silk fiber core, plain weave, open work with weft deviations; fringe: silk and gold-gilt-strip wound around silk fiber core, warp-faced plain weave with extended ground weft and supplementary patterning weft uncut fringe off one edge; lining: linen, plain weave

Dimensions

Chasuble: 126.6 × 70.5 cm (49 7/8 × 27 3/4 in.) Orphrey Cross: 112 × 57.7 cm (44 × 22 3/4 in.)

Credit Line

Grace R. Smith Textile Endowment

Reference Number

1980.615

Extended information about this artwork

Object information is a work in progress and may be updated as new research findings emerge. To help improve this record, please email .

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