Printed Fabric

CC0 Public Domain Designation

Textiles

1780s

Possibly manufactured by Oberkampf Manufactory (French, 1760–1843)
Jouy-en-Josas, France

European manufacturers never successfully replicated Indian techniques for hand painting chintz (derived from the Hindi name for them, chint) fabrics, which were labor intensive and required thorough knowledge of the complex chemistry of natural dyes. After struggling with technical challenges for decades, Europeans improved color block printing techniques during the late 18th century. These advances enabled manufacturers to print multiple colors on a single fabric to more successfully imitate the brilliantly colored chintzes made in India.

Status: Currently Off View
Department: Textiles

Artists: Oberkampf Manufactory (Manufacturer) , Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf (Producer)
Title: Printed Fabric
Places: Jouy-en-Josas (Object Possibly made in), France (Object Probably made in)
Date: Made 1780-1789
Medium: Linen and cotton plain weave; block printed
Dimensions: 173.7 × 81.7 cm (68 3/8 × 32 1/8 in.); Repeat: 31.3 × 40.2 cm (12 3/8 × 15 7/8 in.)
Credit Line: Purchased with funds provided by Mrs. Chauncey B. Borland
Reference Number: 1972.401
IIIF Manifest The International Image Interoperability Framework (IIIF) represents a set of open standards that enables rich access to digital media from libraries, archives, museums, and other cultural institutions around the world. Learn more.: https://api.artic.edu/api/v1/artworks/39186/manifest.json

Christa C. Mayer Thurman, “Rooted in Chicago: Fifty Years of Textile Design Traditions,” published in conjunction with the exhibition, Art Institute of Chicago Museum Studies 23, 1 (1997): 80 (ill.).

Art Institute of Chicago, Fashion Items and Textiles Pertaining to Fashion, Apr. 29–July 16, 1978.
Art Institute of Chicago, Printed Fabrics from the Permanent Collection, Aug. 8, 1981–Jan. 31, 1982.
Art Institute of Chicago, Elizabeth F. Cheney and Agnes Allerton Textile Galleries, Rooted in Chicago: Fifty Years of Textile Design Traditions, Feb. 12–July 27, 1997, cat.
Art Institute of Chicago, Elizabeth F. Cheney and Agnes Allerton Textile Galleries, Fabricating Fashion, Aug. 20, 2022–Jan. 2, 2023, no. cat.

Josephine Howell, New York, by May 1972 [incoming receipt RX8642, May 11, 1972; copy in curatorial object file]; sold to the Art Institute of Chicago, 1972.

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IIIF Manifest The International Image Interoperability Framework (IIIF) represents a set of open standards that enables rich access to digital media from libraries, archives, museums, and other cultural institutions around the world.

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