These textiles feature leafy vines clasped by crowns encircling floral palmettes to create a continuous network. Notably, both the crowns and the palmettes reverse orientation from one row to the next, ensuring that the fabric would never appear upside-down, whether it was used as a wall covering, furniture upholstery, or even a garment.
Italian merchants bought Iranian raw silk in Bursa, at the western edge of the ancient trade route known as the Silk Road (in present-day Turkey). They sold the resulting goods to the Ottoman court in Istanbul. During the 1500s and 1600s, Ottoman sultans were avid consumers of luxury textiles from the Italian peninsula, buying more than Western European monarchs and the Roman Catholic Church.
Date
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Christa Charlotte Mayer, Masterpieces of Western Textiles from The Art Institute of Chicago, exh. cat. (Chicago: Art Institute of Chicago, 1969), 89, pl. 58 (ill.).
Christa C. Mayer Thurman, Textiles in The Art Institute of Chicago (Chicago: Art Institute of Chicago, 1992), p. 22-23, 143 (ill.).
Length B:
Art Institute of Chicago, Applied Arts of Europe rotation, Gallery 238C, Dec. 21, 2023-Present.
Length C:
Art Institute of Chicago, Masterpieces of Western Textiles, Jan. 25–Mar. 2, 1969.
Art Institute of Chicago, Agnes Allerton Gallery, Fashion Items and Textiles Pertaining to Fashion, Apr. 29–July 16, 1978.
Art Institute of Chicago, Agnes Allerton Gallery, Seventeenth Century Textile Treasures from the Permanent Collection, Mar. 12–June 15, 1983.
Art Institute of Chicago, Elizabeth F. Cheney and Agnes Allerton Textile Galleries, Textile Masterpieces from the Art Institute of Chicago’s Collection, Feb. 17–May 2, 1993.
Art Institute of Chicago, The Elizabeth F. Cheney and Agnes Allerton Textile Galleries, Renaissance Velvets and Silks, Dec. 18, 2002–Apr. 13, 2003.
Martin A. Ryerson (1856-1932) and Caroline ‘Carrie’ Ryerson (1859-1937; born Hutchinson; also Mrs. Martin A. Ryerson), Chicago [incoming receipt R6515, Jan. 24, 1938; copy in curatorial object file]; bequeated to the Art Institute of Chicago, 1937.
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