Fragment from the Topacu Waistband of a Tunic (Uncu)
Date:
1550-1625
Artist:
Colonial Inca Inca or Indigenous Viceroyalty of Peru, likely near Cuzco (now probably Peru, possibly Bolivia)
About this artwork
This textile was cut from the waist area of an Inca or Indigenous man’s tunic, called an uncu in Quechua. It was woven during the Spanish colonial period and features five rows of rectangular tocapu motifs. During the Inca Empire, these designs could only be woven for the Sapa Inca, or emperor, who alone granted permission to wear them. These sumptuary laws were later ignored, however, and tocapu clothing became a way for Indigenous elites to display their wealth.
This tunic shoulder fragment in our collection was also part of the same garment. A third piece of the same tunic is in the collection of The Textile Museum in Washington, DC (91.8).
Fragment from the Topacu Waistband of a Tunic (Uncu)
Place
Peru (Object made in)
Date
Dates are not always precisely known, but the Art Institute strives to present this information as consistently and legibly as possible. Dates may be represented as a range that spans decades, centuries, dynasties, or periods and may include qualifiers such as c. (circa) or BCE.
Cotton and wool (camelid), single interlocking tapestry weave with eccentric wefts
Dimensions
25.1 × 43.4 cm (9 7/8 × 17 1/8 in.)
Credit Line
Bessie Bennett Endowment
Reference Number
1924.460
IIIF Manifest
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Joanne Pillsbury, “Inka Unku: Strategy and Design in Colonial Peru,” Cleveland Studies in the History of Art 7 (2002): 90, fig. 29.
Art Institute of Chicago, Department of Africa, Oceania, and the Americas, Dec. 27, 1988–May 10, 1989.
Art Institute of Chicago, Department of Africa, Oceania, and the Americas, Apr. 2–Nov. 4, 1992.
Art Institute of Chicago, Department of Africa, Oceania, and the Americas, Aug. 23, 1993– Jan. 4, 1994.
Art Institute of Chicago, Department of African and Amerindian Art, May 17, 2000–Feb. 7, 2001.
Art Institute of Chicago, Department of African and Amerindian Art, Gallery 126, Apr. 14– June 29, 2005.
Art Institute of Chicago, Arts of the Americas, Gallery 136, Oct. 27, 2021-May 31, 2022.
Sumner Healey (1871–1936), Sumner Healey Antiques, New York, by 1923 [incoming receipt R1383, Dec. 21, 1923, copy in curatorial object file]; sold to the Art Institute of Chicago, 1924.
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