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Tunic (Jibbeh)

A work made of layers of cotton, plain weave; pieced and quilted; appliquéd with wool and wool and cotton plain weaves and wool twill weaves; embroidered with cotton in chain, cross, and a derivative of herringbone stitches; applied plied yarn edging; lined with cotton plain weaves; pieced.
Public Domain

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  • A work made of layers of cotton, plain weave; pieced and quilted; appliquéd with wool and wool and cotton plain weaves and wool twill weaves; embroidered with cotton in chain, cross, and a derivative of herringbone stitches; applied plied yarn edging; lined with cotton plain weaves; pieced.

Date:

1885/99

Artist:

Mahdiyya State, Sudan

About this artwork

Sudanese soldiers wore these tailored tunics to mark their role in the Mahdist state’s fight for independence from British and Egyptian rule in the late 19th century. Appliqué elements, such as the sewn shapes seen here, have long held religious significance in Sudan when they appear as talismanic pockets. They also reference the woolen patches haphazardly applied to homemade garments that Sufi followers wore to declare their contempt for worldly goods. The orderly design of this tunic symbolizes a unified army. The clean lines and uniform arrangement of patches symbolize the Mahdi’s efforts to centralize and organize military loyalties, while still honoring soldiers’ long-held Sufi beliefs.

Status

Currently Off View

Department

Textiles

Cultures

Mahdist peoples , Islamic

Title

Tunic (Jibbeh)

Places

Mahdiyya State (Object made in), Sudan (Object made in), Africa (Object made in)

Date

1885-1899

Medium

Layers of cotton, plain weave; pieced and quilted; appliquéd with wool and wool and cotton plain weaves and wool twill weaves; embroidered with cotton in chain, cross, and a derivative of herringbone stitches; applied plied yarn edging; lined with cotton plain weaves; pieced

Dimensions

93.7 × 116.8 cm (36 7/8 × 46 in.)

Credit Line

African and Amerindian Curator's Discretionary, Holly and David Ross, Arnold H. Crane, African and Amerindian Art Purchase, and O. Renard Goltra funds

Reference Number

2009.6

IIIF Manifest  The International Image Interoperability Framework (IIIF) represents a set of open standards that enables rich access to digital media from libraries, archives, museums, and other cultural institutions around the world.

Learn more.

https://api.artic.edu/api/v1/artworks/198530/manifest.json

Extended information about this artwork

Object information is a work in progress and may be updated as new research findings emerge. To help improve this record, please email . Information about image downloads and licensing is available here.

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