About This Artwork

Japan

Furisode, Late Edo period (1789–1868), 19th century

Silk, 4:1 satin damask weave (rinzu); embroidered with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk in satin stitches; laid work and couching, and padded couching; lined with silk, plain weave
183.8 x 128.8 cm (72 1/4 x 50 3/4 in.)
Shoulder to hem length: 105.9 cm (41 3/4 in.)
Sleeve length: 86.4 cm (34 in.)
Collar back to hem length: 7.6 cm (3 in.)
Width at hem: 62.5 cm (24 5/8 in.)
Width of sleeve panel: 32.7 cm (12 7/8 in.)
Width of center front panel hem overlap: 13.3 cm (5 1/4 in.)
Gift of Gaylord Donnelley in memory of Frances Gaylord Smith, 1991.637

This rinzu is patterned with a sayagata fret of swastikas over which is scattered a motif of either an individual orchid or a chrysanthemum embroidered blossoming plum trees extend from the hem to the shoulder.

Exhibition, Publication and Ownership Histories

Exhibition History

The Art Institute of Chicago, Regenstein Hall, "Five Centuries of Japanese Kimono: On this Sleeve of Fondest Dream," March 7–June 7, 1992

Publication History

Mary V. and Ralph E. Hays, "No Drama Costumes and Other Japanese Costumes in The Art Institute of Chicago," Museum Studies 18, 1 (1992), p. 40, cat. no. 23.

Iwao Nagasaki, Japanese Textile in American Collections (Tokyo: Shogakukan, Inc., 1995), p. 146, cat. no. 143.